New Zealand Week 1

We leave home early in the morning. Seven of us meet at Newark airport. Six others gather at Boston's Logan airport. After easy flights to Los Angeles, the 13 then meet on a bus to the airport Sheraton. At the Sheraton we variously soak in the hot tub (the pool is cold), rest, read and/or have supper. Then back to the airport where another trekker joined the group. The plane left Los Angeles an hour late and then the looong flight across the International date line to New Zealand.

We arrive in Auckland one-half hour late. The inspectors insist on checking our boots for dirt and so most of us miss the scheduled flight to Christchurch. Eventually all 16 of us arrive in Christchurch and we are met by our Kiwi guide, Rich, and the green bus that would lead us around New Zealand. Rich drove us into town and the Orari B&B where we would spend the night. After settling in we independently wandered about Christchurch-the most English city outside England. We explored the Arts Centre and Cathedral Square and strolled through the Canterbury Museum and the Botanical Garden as it started drizzling. We met Rich at 6:00 p.m. for an orientation and discussion and then went into town for a buffet dinner at the Riverview Restaurant.

Day 2, Monday March 11 ~ The Kaikoura Peninsula

In the morning it was still gray and drizzling and we drove north along the coast to the seaside town of Kaikoura. Once a sleepy fishing village, Kaikoura is waking up to its increasing popularity as one of the best places in the world to view marine mammals. An amazing variety of whales, dolphins, and seals feed in the krill-rich waters surrounding Kaikoura.

Aerial view of the Kaikoura Peninsula

In the afternoon we hiked along the coast amongst the fur seals and sea birds and then as the tide came in we climbed up onto the peninsula bluff with fantastic views of the sea and surrounding coastal mountains (2-2.5 mi.).Afterwards we walked around town for an hour. Then a bush hike in the Fyffe-Palmer Scenic Reserve on the slopes of Mt. Fyffe (1-1.5 mi.). The path was damp and somewhat slippery so that Jenni fell and injured her arm. The red X marks the spot.

That evening we stayed at The Old Convent which has been turned into a charming bed & breakfast lodge. Our hosts were a French architect and his Kiwi wife, a cultural combination that inspires wonderful company and a delicious fish dinner.

Jenni and entourage went to the clinic in Kaikoura where a local Doctor determined that the arm was broken at the wrist and he put a cast on it. (Day total: 4 mi.)

On the beach at the end of the peninsula

After an early start we drove north along the coast through one of New Zealand s premier winemaking regions to the Marlborough Sounds, a region of drowned river valleys and sheltered inlets. In Picton we purchased sandwiches at a bakery and then boarded a water taxi for a one-hour ride. The sun had come out and the scenery was magnificent. Around 11 we disembarked at Ship Cove, the start of the Queen Charlotte Track. Our baggage and Jenni and Ralph stayed aboard the water taxi for transfer. First we took a side trail to a waterfall (1 mi.). After lunch at Ship Cove the group began the 5-hour hike south to Furneaux Lodge at Endeavor Inlet (15km = 9.0 mi.). After lunch at the Lodge, Jenni had a rest and did some laundry while Ralph started walking north. Mid afternoon, Ralph met the group on the top of the ridge where the photographers chased a Weka. Later the group found Jenni on the trail. Everyone got to the lodge between 5:00 and 5:30. Dinner was provided by the Lodge. (Day total: Group: 10 mi.; Ralph, 6 mi., Jenni, 2 mi.).

Getting ready to trek, in front of Furneaux Lodge

Day 4, Wednesday March 13 ~ Queen Charlotte Walkway II

In the morning at 9:30 we resumed our Queen Charlotte Track hut-to-hut hiking with light day packs. Our destination was Punga Cove, about a 4-hour journey (11.7km = 7 mi.). The coastal forest is quite lush After a lunch break we reached Punga Cove at 1:30 just in time for ice cream at Camp Bay before our water taxi arrived at 2:00. A one-hour ride brought us to Lochmara Lodge on Lochmara Bay. There was time for relaxing, laundry, swimming, kayaking, and a hike to see the "Punga People." Dinner was an elaborate barbecue prepared by Rich. It was followed by a celebration with a birthday cake for Rich's birthday. After dark many went up the track to see glow worms. (Day total: 7 mi.).

Overnight it rained and in the morning the gray and drizzle continued. We left the lodge at 8:15 and after a one-hour steamy uphill slog in the drizzle we reached the Queen Charlotte Track. On a high ridge overlooking Kenepuru Sound we turned south onto the Track and began the 5-hour hike to Anakiwa and the end of the track. About 10 the rain stopped and the day became sunny, warm (73°) and clear. On the high divides it was possible to look down either side and see both Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. We reached Anakiwa after 2 and were then picked up at the town dock by a water taxi with our luggage and Jerry G. who opted out of the hike because of blisters. The water taxi took us to Picton where we reboarded the Green Bus. Then we were off to the town of Nelson where we stayed at the Mid City Motor Lodge and had a nice dinner at the Pot Rock. (Day total: estimate: 11 mi.; Jerry G. 0 mi.)

A wet and steamy morning; View of Kenepuru Sound; Relaxing at the end of the trek.

After a leisurely breakfast at the shop next door and time to stroll around town, the Green Bus continued west to Kaiteriteri Beach at the edge of Abel Tasman National Park. From here we transferred by water taxi to Tonga Bay for a one-hour walk along the Abel Tasman Track to our mid-park lodging at Awaroa Lodge (2 mi.) where we stayed for 3 nights. Dinner at the Lodge. (Day total: 2 mi.; Ralph and Jenni: 0 mi.)

Meanwhile Jenni and Ralph spent a long morning at Nelson Hospital. After x-rays and consulting with two orthopedists, Jenni decided on a plaster cast rather than surgery and a "fixator" which would have ended the trip. Jenni's arm was anesthetized, reset, cast, and re-x-rayed by a portable giraffe to verify that everything was ok. The Doctor's advise was to take it easy for a day or two. So after returning to town they had a late lunch, wandered about town, visited a jeweler that had made the "Ring" and visited the Queen's Garden. They stayed overnight in Nelson.